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SHIRAZ
Shiraz is a city of sophistication and has always been celebrated as the heartland of Persian culture. In its heyday, the city was given the epithet of Dar-ol-Elm (House of Learning) and became synonymous with learning, nightingales, poetry, roses and wine. It was also one of the most important cities in the medieval Islamic world and was the Iranian capital during the Zand dynasty (1747-79) when many of its most beautiful buildings were built or restored. The charms of modem Shiraz are less immediately apparent, but vestiges of its glorious past remain. It is still a city of poets, and is home to the graves of Hafez and Saadi. The town has an important university with a prestigious medical faculty. The combination of relaxed, highly educated inhabitants and wide tree-lined avenues makes it one of the pleasant large Iranian cities. Shiraz has one of Iran 's most agreeable climates and is located in a fertile valley. Its splendid gardens, exquisite mosques and whispered echoes of ancient sophistication reward those who linger longer than it takes to visit nearby Persepolis. The attractions of Shiraz range from exquisite mosques to mausoleums of great historical significance and tranquil gardens. No visit will be complete without joining thousands - literally - of locals in the modern Friday night ritual of strolling picnicking along the western reaches of Dr Chamran Blvd.
History There was a settlement at Shiraz at least as early as the Achaemenid period, and it was already an important regional centre under the Sassanian. However, it did not become the provincial capital until about 693 A.D., following the Arab conquest of Estakhr, the last Sassanian capital (8 km north-east of Persepolis, but now completely destroyed). As Estakhr fell into decline, Shiraz grew in size and importance first under Arab rule and then under a succession of local dynasties. By the time Estakhr was eventually sacked in 1044, Shiraz was said to rival Baghdad in importance.
The city grew further in the 12th century under the Atabaks of Fars when it became an important artistic centre. Shiraz was spared destruction by the invading Mongols when the province's last Atabak monarch offered tribute and submission to Genghis Khan. It was again spared in 1382, when the local monarch, Shah Shoja', agreed to submit to Timur's armies, even offering the hand of his granddaughter in marriage to a grandson of Timur. Shah Shoja' was followed by a turbulent succession of rulers until Timur appointed his own son as ruler. The period under the Mongols and the Timurids marked the peak of Shiraz 's development. The encouragement of its enlightened rulers, the presence of Hafez, Saadi and many other brilliant artists and scholars, and the city's natural advantages helped Shiraz to become one of the greatest cities in the Islamic world throughout the 13th and 14th centuries. Shiraz was also known as a leading centre of calligraphy, painting, architecture and literature.
For several centuries, even after the end of the Mongol period, artists and scholars from Shiraz sallied forth as cultural emissaries, both inside and outside the country, beautifying Samarqand and many of the Mogul cities of India. The most noteworthy was Ostad Isa, a 17th-century Shirazi architect who provided the design for the Taj Mahal. Under Shah Abbas I, Imam Gholi Khan, the governor of Fars, constructed a large number of palaces and other ornate buildings along the lines of the royal capital at Isfahan. But while Shiraz remained a provincial capital during the Safavid period, even attracting several European traders who exported its famous wine, the city quickly fell into nearly a century of decline. This was worsened by several earthquakes, the Afghan raids of the early 18th century, and an uprising led by Shiraz's governor in 1744, which was put down after a siege by Nader Shah. At the time of Nader Shah's murder in 1747, most of Shiraz 's historical buildings were damaged or ruined, and its population had fallen to 50,000, a quarter of what it had been 200 years earlier. Shiraz soon returned to prosperity under the enlightened Karim Khan, the first ruler of the short-lived Zand dynasty, who made Shiraz the national capital in 1750. Master of virtually all Persia, Karim Khan refused to take any higher title than Vakil (regent). He was determined to raise Shiraz into a worthy capital, the equal of Isfahan under Shah Abbas I. Karim Khan was a benevolent and wise ruler and one of the greatest patrons of the arts in Persian history. Employing more than 12,000 workers, he founded a royal district in the area of the Arg-e Karim Khani and commissioned many fine buildings, including the finest bazaar in Persia. However Karim Khan's heirs failed to secure his gains. When Agha Muhammad Khan, the cruel founder of the Qajar dynasty, came to power, he wreaked his revenge on Shiraz, destroying the city's fortifications and, in 1789, moving the national capital to Tehran, taking with him the remains of Karim Khan. Although reduced to the rank of provincial capital, Shiraz managed to remain prosperous due to the continuing importance of the trade route to Bushehr. The city's role in trade greatly diminished with the opening of the trans-Iranian railway in the 1930s, as trade routes shifted to the ports in Khuzestan. Much of the architectural inheritance of Shiraz, and especially the royal district of the Zands, was either neglected or destroyed as a result of irresponsible town planning under the Pahlavi dynasty. Lacking any great industrial, religious or strategic importance Shiraz is now largely an administrative centre, although its population has grown considerably since the Islamic Revolution 1979. It's also home to a large (though decreasing) population of Afghan refugees.
Mosques & Mausoleums Vakil's Mosque The beautiful Vakil's Mosque (Masjed-e Vakil), built in 1773 by Karim Khan at one of the entrances to his bazaar, is beautiful. The mosque has two vast iwans to the north and south, a magnificent inner courtyard surrounded by beautifully tiled alcoves and porches, a wonderful vaulted Mehrab with 48 impressive columns, and a remarkable 14-step marble minbar. Although the structure of the mosque dates from 1773, most of the tiling, with its predominantly floral motifs, was added in the early Qajar era.
Mausoleum of Shah-e Cheragh
The famous Mausoleum of Shah-e Cheragh or Mausoleum of the King of the Lamp (Bogh'e-ye Shah-e Cheragh) houses the remains of Sayyed Mir Ahmad (brother of Imam Reza of Mashhad fame) who died, or was killed, in Shiraz in 835 A.D. A mausoleum was first erected over the grave in the mid-14th century and it has been an important Shiite place of pilgrimage ever since. The shoe repository outside the doorway to the shrine is as hectic as that of any mosque in Iran, and the expansive courtyard is a great place to sit and discreetly observe the moving climax to what is an important religious rite for Shiites from all over Iran and further afield. Non-Muslims should ask for permission before entering - if you are polite and well presented, you'll be allowed in. The multicolored reflections from the vast numbers of minute mirror tiles inside the shrine are quite dazzling and the golden topped minarets above it are superb. The bookshop between Ahmadi Square and the western entrance to the courtyard has a range of postcards, posters and the occasional book in English. The mausoleum is open from about 7 am to 10 pm daily; entry is free. All visitors should dress very respectfully -women must put on a chador even if they are already wearing a coat and headscarf; you can borrow one from the bookshop outside the complex. Cameras are forbidden inside the shrine but permitted in the courtyard.
Jameh-ye Atigh Mosque This ancient mosque, first built in 894, is in an alley south-east of the Shah-e Cheragh mausoleum. Virtually all the original structure has disappeared, as a result of various earthquakes, and most of the building dates from the Safavid period onwards. It is mainly of interest for the very unusual turreted rectangular building in the centre of the courtyard. Known as the KhodaKhune (House of God), it was built in the mid-14th century to preserve valuable Qurans, and is believed to be modeled on the Kaaba at Mecca. Although most of it was very skillfully rebuilt in the early 20th century, the House of God still bears an original and unique inscription in raised stone characters on a tiled background.
Madreseh-ye Khan Imam Gholi Khan, governor of Fars, founded this serene theological college for about 100 students in 1615. The original building has been extensively damaged by earthquakes and only a small part remains. The mullahs' training college (still in use) has a fine stone-walled inner courtyard set around a small garden. The building can be reached from a lane through a very impressive portal; watch for the unusual type of stalactite moulding inside the outer arch and some very intricate mosaic tiling with much use of red in contrast to the tiles used in Yazd and Isfahan. Although the Madreseh is often closed, the caretaker will sometimes open it; a tip is appreciated (locals also pay to have the door opened). If you can get in, make sure you climb to the roof for wonderful views over the bazaar.
Nasir-ol-Molk Mosque
Further down the bazaar from the Madreseh-ye Khan, this mosque is one of the most elegant in southern Iran. Built relatively recently, at the end of the 19th century, its coloured tilings (an unusually deep shade of blue) are exquisite. There is some particularly fine stalactite moulding in the smallish outer portal and in the northern iwan. The structure has survived numerous earthquakes, due in part to its construction using flexible wood as struts within the walls. There is a small museum and also some wonderful stone pillars. Entrance costs IR15, 000.
Emam Zadeh-ye Ali Ebn-e Hamze
This tomb of the nephew of the seventh Shiite Imam has a bulbous dome which is quite stunning. The interior (no photos allowed) has mirror work as dazzling as you'll see anywhere, as well as beautiful stained-glass windows and an intricate, ancient wooden door The tombstones around the courtyard for which families of the deceased paid a small fortune, are also interesting; some date back to the 19th century. Virtually all the original 10th century structure has disappeared, after several earthquakes and significant repairs and extensions, but unless you saw the original you're unlikely to be disappointed.
Parks, Gardens & Tombs Tomb of Hafez (Aramgah-e Hafez) The tomb of the celebrated poet Hafez is north of the river along Golestan Blvd. The charming garden with its two pools is very restful, especially in the warmer months when the flowers are in full bloom. The mausoleum itself is simpler and more attractive than that of Saadi. The marble tombstone, engraved with a long verse from the poet's works, was placed here, inside a small shrine, by Karim Khan in 1773. In 1935, an octagonal pavilion was put up over it, supported by eight stone columns beneath a tiled dome. Karim Khan also built an iwan close to the shrine which was enlarged at the same time as the pavilion was erected.
To fully appreciate Hafez's significance to Iran, plan to spend a couple of hours sitting in a discreet corner of the grounds, at sunset if possible If you've spent any time around Iran in teahouses frequented by locals, you're likely to have come across groups of Iranians reading excerpts of Hafez's works. Iranians also have a saying that every home must have two things: first the Quran, then Hafez. One popular belief is that if you wish to know your destiny, then open a volume of Hafez and all will be revealed. Around the tomb itself, this deep respect for the greatest of Persian poets comes to life, with Iranians from all walks of life strolling through the gardens reading from his poetry in groups or alone and approaching the tomb with great reverence. After the sun sets, with the tomb floodlit and sung versions of the poetry of Hafez piped quietly over the public address system, it is difficult not to feel transported back to the magic of ancient Persia. While you may not be able to fully replicate the experience, it is easy in such surroundings to agree with Gertrude Bell, who, in the early 19th century asked, "Is it not rather refreshing to the spirit to lie in a hammock strung between the plane trees of a Persian garden and read the poems of hafez?" The grounds are open from about 8 am to 9 pm daily and entrance costs IR15, 000. There's a wonderful teahouse in the private, walled garden inside the grounds and two excellent bookshops.
Tomb of Saadi (Aramgah-e Saadi) The garden at the Tomb of Saadi is tranquil, with a natural spring in a valley at the foot of a hill and a fish pond fed by a qanat. The plain marble tomb with its Farsi inscription dates from the 1860s and is surrounded by an octagonal stone colonnade, inscribed with various verses from Saadi, supporting a tiled dome. The entrance fee is IR 15,000 and the gardens are open from 8.30 am to 11 pm.
Eram Garden (Bagh-e Eram) It is famous for its cypress trees. The delightful Garden of Paradise is the place where any budding botanist should head.Alongside a pretty pool is the charming 19th century Qajar palace, the Kakh-e Eram, which has some wonderful paintings, plaster facades and mirror work. Unfortunately, visitors cannot enter the palace. They close at 7.30 pm. Entrance costs IR20, 000. The best time for photos is early morning.
Naranjestan Garden (Bagh-e Naranjestan) Known as the Orange Garden, this recently restored house and garden makes a worthy rival to the Bagh-e Eram. The main pavilion, Naranjestan-e Ghavam, was built between 1879 and 1886 as a reception hall for visitors, and was also used as the Governor's Residence during the late Qajar period. It was connected to the Zinat ol-Molk building, where the women and children resided, by an underground tunnel to enable them to pass without being seen. Shiraz University runs an impressive art gallery in the vaulted rooms beneath the Zinat ol-Molk building. Inside the pavilion, there is a dazzling mirrored entrance hall, while the surrounding rooms have a breathtaking combination of intricate tiles, inlaid wooden panels, plaster period painting and beautiful stained glass windows. The facade also has some mock Persepolis bas-reliefs. The gardens are compact but very attractive with an orchard and a headstone dating from 150 A.D. The gardens open from 7.30 am to 6 pm. Entrance costs IR20, 000.
Afif Abad Garden (Bagh-e Afif Abad) The pretty gardens around the Afif Abad Palace once belonged, like most things, to the shah. Built in 1863 in Qajar style, the lower floor of the palace is now a military museum. Also in the grounds are the remains of a Turkish bathhouse and a small but excellent teahouse. The gardens have odd opening hours - from 5 to 8 pm daily, closing a little earlier in winter. Entrance costs IR20, 000.
Quran Gateway (Darvazeh-ye Quran) On the outskirts of Shiraz is the Darvazeh-ye Quran or Quran Gateway, the burial tomb for Mir AIi, grandson of seventh Imam (Imam Musa Kazem). The exact dates of construction are conflicting, but it is known that the great Karim Khan added a room at the top of the gateway to house a holy Quran. An ancient Persian tradition, still observed by some, requires that all travelers pass underneath a Quran before undertaking any journey. In the general complex, you can visit the Tomb of Khaju-ye Kermani, another famous poet and a contemporary of Saadi, where a bust of Kermani is on display.
Vakil's Bazaar (Bazaar-e Vakil)
This fine bazaar was constructed by Karim Khan as part of a plan to make Shiraz into a great trading centre. The vaulted brick ceilings ensure that the interior is cool in summer and warm in winter, and it has been described as the finest bazaar in Iran. In the best traditions of Persian bazaars, the Bazaar-e Vakil is best explored by wandering without concern for time or direction, soaking up the atmosphere in the labyrinthine lanes. Chances are you'll stumble across Serai-e Mushier, off the southern end of the main bazaar lane coming from Zand. This tastefully restored two-storey caravanserai is a pleasant place to gather your breath and do a bit of souvenir shopping. The bazaar has its own Zand-era bathhouse, the Hammam-e Vakil, dating from Karim Khan's time, next to the Regent's Mosque. The hammam was undergoing renovation at the time of research and will be one of the best in the country when finished. In the meantime, one of the workmen may let you have a look around for a small tip.
Arg-e Karim Khani The imposing structure Citadel of Karim Khan dominates the city centre and served as a prison. If times. This well-preserved fortress with four 14m-high circular towers was, in time of the Zand dynasty, part of a royal courtyard which Karim Khan hoped would rival that of Isfahan. The sign inside proclaims that "The exalted stature of the Karim Khani citadel amuses every new traveler for a long time who arrives in Shiraz ".
PERSEPOLIS (TAKHT-E JAMSHID) & pasargadae
A visit to the ruins of the ancient city of Persepolis (Takht-e Jamshid) will almost certainly be one of the highlights of any trip to Iran. Persepolis is the best preserved of Persia 's ruined cities and the finest legacy of the great Achaemenid Empire which ruled Persia between 559 and 330 B.C. The most impressive features of the ruins are the splendid bas-reliefs which adorn many of the staircases and palaces on the site and provide a rich treasure house of ancient history. Entry costs IR50.000. The site is open from 7.30 am to 7.30 pm. The first capital of the Achaemenid Empire was at Pasargadae; further north, but in bout 512 BC Darius I (the Great) started constructing this massive and magnificent palace complex to serve as the summer capital. Some historians believe that the site was chosen by Cambyses II, son of Cyrus the Great. It was completed by a host of subsequent kings, including Xerxes I and II, and Artaxerxes I, II and III, over a period of 150 years. The ruins you see today are a mere shadow of Persepolis' former glory, even though they are much more revealing than the less well-preserved traces of the Achaemenid administrative capital at Shush or further north at Pasargadae. Incredibly, the ancient city was lost to time for centuries, totally covered by dust and sand, before extensive excavations, began in the 1930s, revealed the glories of the city once more.
Entering the City From the outside, much of the city is obscured by its high walls. Entrance to the site is, as it was during the days of Achaemenid Persia, via the monumental Grand Stairway, carved from massive blocks of stone but with shallow steps so Persians in long elegant robes could walk gracefully up into the palace. Whenever important foreign delegations arrived, their presence was heralded by trumpeters at the top of the staircase (amazingly, fragments of these bronze trumpets are on display in the museum). Acolytes then led the dignitaries through Xerxes' Palace, also known as the Gate of All Nations, still a wonderfully impressive monument today. They wouldn't have seen the modern graffiti that scars some of the stone panels, although some of these scrawls have become footnotes of history themselves, with many left by British soldiers posted here in the 19th and 20th centuries; note in particular the mark left in 1889 by one Lieutenant Colonel J Meade, Her Britannic Majesty's Consul General. The gateway was built during the time of Xerxes I and is guarded by bull-like figures, which are strongly reminiscent of the statues of Assyria. Above these look for a cuneiform inscription in the Persian, Babylonian and Elamite languages. It delares, among other things, that "I am Xerxes, Great King, King of Kings, King of lands, King of many races...son of Darius the King, the Achaemenid...Many other beautiful things were constructed in Persia. I constructed them and my father constructed them".
Palace of 100 Columns Visitors from nations of lesser importance were then sometimes led to the Palace of 100 Columns where the king would receive them. As you follow in their footsteps through the Court of Apadana, look for the Unfinished Gate, the Hall of 32 Columns and the impressive doubleheaded eagles or griffins. The Palace of 100 Columns was the largest of the palaces at Persepolis; here delegates from subject nations came to restate their loyalty and pay tribute in a ritual reassertion of the power of the Achaemenid Empire. Light was provided by lamps placed in alcoves around the walls.
Apadana Palace & Staircase Important Persian and Median notables were more likely to be ushered to the Apadana Palace to the south. Constructed on a terrace of stone by Xerxes I, the palace was reached via another staircase. Although it can be difficult to picture the grandeur of the palace from what remains, the bas-reliefs along the northern wall evocatively depict the scenes of splendor that must have accompanied the arrival of delegations to meet with the king. Most impressive of all, however, and among the most impressive historical sights in all of Iran, are the bas-reliefs along the Apadana Staircase of the eastern wall, which can also be reached from the Palace of 100 Columns. The northern panels recount the reception of the Persians in their long robes and the Medes in their shorter ones, and the three tiers of figures are amazingly well preserved. Each tier contains representations of the Imperial Guard or the Immortals. On the upper tier, they are followed by the royal procession, the royal valets and the horses of the Elamite king of chariots, while on the lower two tiers they precede the Persians with their feather headdresses and the Medes in their round caps. The stairs themselves are guarded by Persian soldiers. The central panel of the staircase is dedicated to symbols of the Zoroastrian deity Ahura Mazda. God is symbolized by a ring with wings, flanked by two eagles with human heads and guarded by four Persian and Median soldiers; the Persians are the ones carrying the indented shields. An inscription announces to the world that the palace was started by Darius and completed by Xerxes and implores God to protect it from "famine, lies and earthquakes". The panels at the southern end are for many visitors the most interesting, showing 23 delegations bringing their tributes to the Achaemenid king. This rich record of the nations of the time ranges from the Ethiopians in the bottom left corner, through a climbing pantheon of, among various other peoples, Arabs, Thracians, Indians, Parthians and Cappadocians, up to the Elamites and Medians at the top right. Of all the panels, those on the staircase's southern face most strongly evoke the great power of the Achaemenid Empire.
Persepolis Reconstructed In its heyday the city spread over an area of 125,000 sq meters and was the place where all the peoples of the empire came to pay homage to the kings over NowRuz (New Year); at other times of year it was probably deserted. For a city that stood at the heart of such a great empire, Persepolis was rarely mentioned in foreign records, fuelling speculation among some archaeologists that the existence of the city was kept a secret from the outside world; in the records that remain, attention focused on the other Achaemenid cities at Shush and Baghdad. Persepolis stands on the slopes of Mt Rahmat and was surrounded by an 18m-high wall. Its original name was Parsa; the first known reference to it by its Greek name of Persepolis - meaning both City of Parsa (City of Persia) and Destroyer of Cities came after its sacking by Alexander the Great's army. Persepolis was burned to the ground during Alexander's visit in 330 B.C., although historians disagree about whether this was accidental or in retaliation for the destruction of Athens by Xerxes 150 years earlier.
Royal Palaces The south-west corner of the site is dominated by the palaces attributed to each of the kings. The Palace of Darius I (known sometimes as the Tachara or Winter Palace ) is probably the most striking, with its impressive gateways and bas-reliefs and cuneiform inscriptions around the perimeter. The palace opens onto a royal courtyard, which is also flanked by the unfinished Palace of Artaxerxes III and Xerxes' Palace.
Central Palace This palace is also referred to as Xerxes' Hall of Audience or the Triplyon, and stands at the heart of Persepolis. Its location enabled the king to receive his notables in an area shielded from outside view and it was here that many important political decisions were taken. On the columns of the eastern doorway are reliefs showing Darius on his throne, borne by the representatives of 28 countries; the crown prince Xerxes stands behind his father.
Museum Immediately to the east of the Central Palace lies the museum. Despite the depictions around the door of the king defeating evil, the original purpose of this structure is not known. The museum contains a stone foundation tablet and a range of artifacts discovered during excavations: alabaster vessels, cedar wood, lances and arrow tips. Look also for the small representation of a Sassanian king on a horse. Entry to the museum is included in the IR50, 000 fees that you pay to enter the site. Note that the museum sometimes closes for an hour at lunch time. There is a great bookshop just to the right of the entrance and a stall selling some drinks.
Treasury & Tombs The south-east corner of the site is dominated by Darius' Treasury, where archaeologists found stone tablets in Elamite and Akkadian detailing the wages paid to the unsung (and underpaid) laborers who built Persepolis. Little more than a few bas-reliefs and some of the foundations of the hundreds of columns strewn around the site remain. On the hill above the Treasury are the rock-hewn tombs of Artaxerxes II and Artaxerxes III, each with Zoroastrian carvings. The view from the tombs over Persepolis and the plain that extends to the west is quite beautiful.
Sound & Light Show A sound and light show takes place intermittently at around 8.30 pm on Thursday and Friday. That said, if the grandeur of Persepolis has gripped you, it can be a great way to get another perspective on this most spectacular of sites, even if you don't stay right to the end. Before setting out from Shiraz, ask your hotel if the show will be running, or, if you're in the vicinity, check with the gatekeeper.
Pasargadae Begun under Cyrus (Kouroush) the Great in about 546 B.C., the city of Pasargadae was quickly superseded by Darius I's magnificent palace at Persepolis Hard though it is to believe it now; this hot, deserted plain was once surrounded by forest. The first structure you'll come across is the six-tiered Tomb of Cyrus. Standing proudly on the windswept plain, this impressive stone cenotaph was originally much taller than it is now and is still the best preserved of the Pasargadae ruins. Legend has it that when Alexander the Great arrived at Pasargadae, he was greatly distressed by the destruction of the tomb and ordered its restoration. Within walking distance of the tomb (though perhaps not in summer) to the north and north-east are the insubstantial remains of three Achaemenid Palaces -the Entrance Palace, the Audience Palace and Cyrus' Private Palace; the ruins of a tomb on a plinth. known as the Prison of Suleiman (Zendan-e Suleiman); a large stone platform on a hill known as the Throne of the Mother of Suleiman (Takht-e Madar-e Suleiman; the views from the top over the surrounding countryside are superb); and two stone plinths which originally formed part of a pair of altars within a sacred precinct. Some local historians believe that the references to Suleiman date from the Arab conquest, when the inhabitants of Pasargadae renamed the sites with Islamic names to prevent their destruction. In Cyrus' Private Palace, there is a cuneiform inscription which reads: "I am Cyrus, the Achaemenid King". Pasargadae is open from about 7.30 am to 8 pm daily, although it often closes earlier in winter.
Naqsh-e Rostam & Naqsh-e Rajab The sites of Naqsh-e Rostam and Naqsh-e Rajab are definitely worth visiting as part of a trip to Persepolis. The rock tombs of Naqsh-e Rostam are magnificent. Hewn out of a cliff high above the ground, the four tombs of Naqsh-e Rostam are believed to be those of Darius I, Artaxerxes I, Xerxes I and Darius II (from left to right as you look at the cliff) although historians are still debating this. The tombs of the later Artaxerxes above Persepolis were modeled on those at Naqsh-e Rostam. The openings in the massive cross-shaped tombs lead to the funerary chambers, where bones were stored after the vultures had picked them clean, but you can't go inside them any more. The reliefs above the openings are similar to those at Persepolis, with the kings standing at Zoroastrian fire altars supported by figures representing the subject nations below. The eight Sassanian stone reliefs cut into the cliff beneath the facades of the Achaemenid tombs depict scenes of imperial conquests and royal ceremonies. These include the investiture of Ardeshir I (on the far left of the cliff), and a relief portraying Bahman II carved over the top of an Elamite carving dating from over a thousand years before (around the 8th century B.C. ), of which only the figures on either end remain. It is believed that most of the reliefs were created to celebrate the victory of the Sassanian king, Shapur, over the Roman invader, Valerian, in the 3rd century. At one time it was thought that the pictures might represent stories of Rostam from the Shah-namah, hence the name of the site. Facing the cliff is what is believed to be an Achaemenid fire temple, the Kaaba Zartosht, although the walls are marked with inscriptions cataloguing Sassanian victories. Entry to the site costs IR15, 000 and it's open from 8 am to 6 pm, sometimes later in summer. The tombs of Naqsh-e Rajab are directly opposite the turn-off to Naqsh-e Rostam on the Shiraz-Isfahan road and are worth a quick look on your way between Persepolis and Naqsh-e Rostam. These four fine Sassanian bas-reliefs are hidden from the road by the folds of the cliff face and depict various scenes from the reigns of Ardeshir I and Shapur the Great. A man called Rajab once had a teahouse here, hence the name of the site.
Reference: "Iran", by Pat Yale, Anthony Ham, Paul Greenway, Lonly Planet Pulications
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P.O. Box: 19585-798, Tehran, Iran |
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